part 7 - a lattice window

I wanted a lattice window. I've used Gallery Glass to make dollhouse leading. I also have some fabric paint by Tulip that I got years ago, that works similarly to the Gallery Glass, but I didn't feel like using either of them for this project.
I found some nice screening and thought about using that, but it wasn't quite the right size, so I'd have had to go to the hardware store and maybe the builder's supply store to see if they had what I wanted. I remembered that I had seen plastic mesh at the crafts supply store, and wondered if it would be in the correct scale. I really didn't feel like going to stores and hunting through them for maybe hours (including driving time) when I remembered the clear dollhouse tile sheets. I was pretty sure I might still have some leftover from another project, and here it is.
I measured out the size of my window opening, and cut a piece of the plastic sheeting to size.
I then took out a marker, and started drawing atop the lines. You could also draw them on a sheet of plain acrylic if you wanted to. I wanted to have a bit of texture on my "glass", and drawing with marker over the raised areas of the plastic "tiling" gave me that, without the worry of the Gallery Glass or Tulip fabric paint clogging or blobbing. I hate it when my hand shakes a little. It always seems to when I need to draw a perfect straight line.
It also occurred to me that you could stick 2 sheets back to back and have the raised leading on both the inside and outside of a lattice pane window if you wanted to.
here's a closeup of the window, framed. I still have to fill in a few little gaps with putty or plaster, then paint the trim.
All of the molding on the window is made from bass stripwood.
Here's a picture of the room so far. There's still a bit of plaster on the sides of the timbers. I can either wipe some more off with water, or even better, since the plaster is smooth, dab some paint over it.
Ooops, I forgot about the plastering. I wanted lots of texture to the wall, so I needed to plaster.
Usually I'm inspired by a picture of a house or part of a room and take off from there, but this time I wanted to reproduce a picture of a room I found in a book. Later I'll show you the picture of the original wash house.

You can get the clear tile sheets from Model Builders Supply. You can see if there's a store in your country who carries their products by checking their 'retail stores' search feature under their information section. also sells these sheets. I have to admit I'm not sure if they're the exact same product. I think I bought mine through a few years before I started New England Miniatures.

Fran Casselman left a comment saying that yes, the tile sheet sold by is made by Model Builders Supply.
Thank you Fran! Thanks also to everyone who commented on the wash house so far!

Continue here.....

part 6 - some timbering

Sorry, I got sidetracked this week, didn't get as much done on the wash house as I'd hoped, but here's a picture with the side wall timbered (still one to add), just to give you an idea of where I'm going. There's still more to do to the wall. I plan on adding plaster between the timbers, and an extra layer of thickness to the lower section. For now there's just a coat of white paint.

I took pictures to show how I applied the final paint to the timbers, but I was in a hurry to get done and didn't notice I had the focus set wrong on my camera, so they all turned out fuzzy. I did take a couple of pictures of the last timber this morning.
Yes, it's pouring rain of course, supposed to rain all day today and tomorrow.
I used a dark brown, in this case it happened to be Bittersweet Chocolate by Americana, though any kind of burnt umber type brown would do. Burnt umber, by the way, is a basic dull brown.
I also used streaks of Payne's Grey, which is a mixture of black and blue, sometimes with a bit of red in it. I've been using one made by Americana paints that actually looks rather like a deep, very dark purple. I also used a little raw sienna to lighten up spots where I felt I used too much Payne's Grey.
The photo above and below show the same painted stick in different lighting. I had to use a flash in the lower picture, so the colors aren't right, but you can see that the paints are sort of streaky.
If you're going to try and use several shades of color on your timbers, don't be afraid of streakiness. You don't want long wide streaks of color, but little streaks are good. If you hold the stick away from you, you want to see slight variations in color, just as you see in wood products around your home.

I have to do some plastering next, and paint the sink to look like stone.

Continue here.....

part 5 - Timber!

The subject is timber - miniature dollhouse timbers, how to cut, shape and age them.

In the past, I've cut timbering strips from scrap wood or even scrap plywood. The plywood timbers give a satisfactory look if you're going to paint them a dark brown, especially if people will be viewing them straight on, so there's no chance of seeing the wood layers on the sides. I've tucked plywood timbers in here and there in Miss Frobisher's Cottage and Tall Chimneys. Nowadays I've become a bit lazy and prefer to use square dowels, and I don't have very many 2 x 4 board scraps anymore anyway.

So - for this demonstration, I'm using 3/8" x 3/8" square dowels. I got these at a craft and hobby shop, though I've also bought them in hardware stores and at places like Home Depot and Lowes.
Hobby shops carry dowels made of basswood or balsa, I like to use the basswood ones. Hardware and lumber dealers tend to have dowels of pine, oak, or other hardwoods.

The wash house needs a few timbers on a side wall, so here's how I make them.
First I cut the dowel to length, then, using my band saw, I cut a wiggly strip off the edge. A scroll saw would be great for this, but I don't have one - always meant to buy one, but just never got around to it.
And here's the future aged timber....
Below you can see the 2 pieces separated.-----Note----if you don't have a scroll saw or band saw, you don't HAVE to do this cut. You can make a perfectly nice old timber skipping this step. I just do it because, well, I'm me, and I have this need to do this split cut for this particular project.
A little tip, I like to jot down which side goes against the wall or ceiling, etc.
The next step is to beat up the poor little strip of wood with a vengeance. I have found that a rotary tool, like the Dremel, is great for this. I'll stick one of those little drum sanders on and start working. First I'll sand down the wiggly cut side till I can't see the saw marks. Next I'll round off the corner edges of the dowel, so they're not quite square.
After that it's time to attack. I pounce and swoosh my little rotary drum sander up and down and around the little dowel.  I heard the baseball chant "ssswing-batter-batter" running through my head. It's the playoff to the World Series as I write this, and my husband and son have been watching all the games. The way I work the sander is to do batter the dowel, then do a swooshing swing every once in a while and some more batter-batter till I'm satisfied. This is what I wind up with after I've sanded the dowel a bit with a foam sander (not too hard) to remove the excess fibrous bits. If you've never used a foam sander it's sandpaper that's bonded to a piece of foam. There are thin sheets and nice fat blocks.  They're great for sanding moldings or even just flat boards too. If you've used them to sand a painted surface, you can rinse out the paint, then let the pad dry and use it again.
Next I gave the timbers a base coat of brown paint. It doesn't really matter what shade of brown you use. In this case I used some raw sienna. This coat of paint is in effect, a primer. Once the paint is dry you can give the timbers a little more gentle sanding with fine grit sandpaper to remove the bits of wood fiber that have popped up.
As you can see, the timbers are looking pretty good, although in this picture they are still drying, and I haven't given them their final gentle sanding. Using a brown like burnt sienna will give a warmer, reddish brown color.
After this sanding, sometimes the timbers will look perfect for your project. They may have just the aged look you're looking for. That's great - stop right there and use them as they are. Sometimes another light wash of color may be needed to cover up a few bare spots that may have cropped up after the sanding.
For the wash house, though, I'll want mine dark, so I'll be doing some more paint and brush work on them.

PS: for a true, beat up aged look, stick to basswood or pine. Hardwoods are just too hard. Balsa is a fine substitute if you don't have a rotary tool, because it's very soft. You can get many of the same effects using a hammer, screwdriver, old dried out pens, etc. to rough up the wood.

That's all for today. This tutorial has been brought to you by New England Miniatures.

How's that for a commercial advertisement? Please, go - browse, and thank you.

Continued here.....

part 4 - the cottage wash house

It seems that the last time I posted about progress on the wash house was in early July, and I thought I'd get it done in no time. Boy, was I wrong.
Is it hard for you to get back to a project you haven't worked on in a long time? It is for me.

During the last few days I did most of the "brickwork".
What bricks? I don't see any bricks, you say, ah, but they're there - under the plaster.
Here's how far I've progressed.
I bricked up the set kettle (a.k.a. boiler) once before, but then ripped off all the brickwork because it looked all wrong. the "bricks" were a bit too small. Actually, they weren't REALLY too small, they just looked too small. The brick boiler would have been too messy and lumpy looking in the end. I had to cut a whole new set of bricks.

What did I use to make the bricks? I used pressed paper egg cartons.
Here's a well I made for of my Gnome's Cottage. I made the stones out of egg cartons.
Here's a plastered over stone fireplace from the Kitschy Kitchen. I used the egg carton to make stones
Here's a link to Connie Sauve's egg carton brick tutorial. Lots of pictures and a good tutorial on making bricks. The first time I tried it, I admit I was dubious if I'd like the finished results, but I was very pleased with how my stones came out on that gnome's well. Yes, that was my first egg carton work.

For the wash house I wanted the look of bricks that had been plastered over, but with a bit of brick color showing through here and there. There's actually a good reason why people used to cover bricks with plaster. Before the early 1800's interiors of brick fireplaces were often coated with plaster because the heat of the fire could cause the bricks to crack.
Some bricks, like those used in many old English cottages, were soft, and liable to erode from rain over time, so they were covered with plaster too.

I decided to make my bricks a yellow ochre color, instead of the more often seen brick red.
Once my egg carton bricks were glued on, I gave them a coat of yellow ochre acrylic craft paint.
Later I applied some plaster, also known as drywall compound, joint compound, or spackle. In some places it was heavier, in others, lighter, letting the color underneath show through.
I wanted the top of the brick set kettle or boiler to be smooth, so after the plaster dried I wet a paper towel and rubbed the surface to make it smoother. I also rubbed down some other areas that were a bit too lumpy. As long as the plaster hasn't been painted, you can wet it down and smmoth it out however you like. You can easily add another layer of plaster too, if you feel the surface needs it. I still have to fill in some areas with brick and plaster, and smooth down a few spots. I still haven't glued the insert I'm working on to the actual roombox yet either.

I want to leave the top half of the chimney piece fairly smooth. I rather like having the different textures.
Next I'll be making timbers for the wall and ceiling. I'm planning on using some square dowels for that.

Continued here.....